Before we head to London, we left out a useful point about punting in Oxford. The punting rentals are at the Magdalen Bridge Boathouse. There is also a Magdalen College Boathouse in Oxford. Make sure you go to the Magdalen Bridge Boathouse for your punting trip.
Living in a small Midwestern city we love our vehicle but there is no need to have one in London and it is a big problem to park it. And if your are doing London and, say, Oxford, take the train to Oxford and rent a car there if you need one. We didn’t. Trains are a flexible way to travel from London because there are lots of them. We got two round trip tickets London to Oxford for sixty-some pounds. The trip out was in fifteen minutes and the return trip could be anytime within 30 days as long as it was after 9:30 (we think we have the numbers straight). England is smaller than Wisconsin but has almost ten times as many people so trains are very effective mode of transportation in such a densely populated area because they give lots of options to most destinations. Train stations in Europe are almost always in the city center so they are a great way to travel without a vehicle.
For getting around London you need an Oyster Card. As it says at the link, buy your card before you leave and save money. We used our Oyster card to get to and from the airport and all over London on the Underground. You can also ride the buses but our personal preference was the Underground.
Like any great city, London has more than you can possibly do. In previous trips we have done the history thing. If you do don’t miss the Churchill War Rooms. This trip was about entertainment and walking the city. We went to see three plays: Six at The Vaudeville Theatre, The Mousetrap at St. Martin’s Theatre, and Much Ado About Nothing at the Globe. We saw two sporting events: Soccer at the Emirates and cricket at Lord’s. And we walked around Little Venice and Kensington Park. And we ate out and the highlight was high tea at the Wolseley.
Let’s start with walking London. We think you should have some mellow time during your busy trip. London has lots of green space so it is a lovely walk in early May when the flowers are already blooming but the crowds are not. Weekdays are obviously better than weekends. As you walk along the Serpentine in Kensington Gardens you will see all manner of waterfowl from swans to grebes. Be sure to do the flower walk there and you should see the feral parakeets. They look like parrots to us but this post says they are parakeets. And if you are determined to go inside you can do Kensington Palace on the edge of the Gardens. Little Venice is another mellow walk. There are canal boats or narrow boats all around. If you really want to go narrow boating try here but there are short trips from Little Venice. Or you can go to the narrow boat with the puppet show. We found a little mellow time was needed to enjoy the more intense events. Like high tea at the Wolseley.
We enjoy pub food but high tea is not to be missed and the Wolseley is a great place to do it. Here are the details for afternoon tea. There is tea on silver, a variety of little sandwiches (make sure to try the coronation chicken), scones, and desserts. Enjoy them all at you leisure in elegant surroundings while the well dressed staff keeps a careful eye on you. You need to try tea at least once. There are lots more options for plays.
St. Martin’s and the Vaudeville are lovely old and intimate playhouses. St. Martin’s holds 552 people over three levels and the Vaudeville is similar. Go early so you can check out the theatre and don’t forget to order drinks and snacks for the interval. Well not for Six because it doesn’t have a break. Yup, you can make a bar order before the show and pick up your order at the interval. Honest folks in the UK. Six is the musical reunion of the six wives of Henry VIII. It is like going to see a concert for a girl band. There are 80 minutes of great singing and tight choreography. We thought it was great fun but would not go as far as saying it was great theatre. Your milage may vary.
The Mousetrap is the world’s longest running play because it appeals to both audience and actors. It is a tightly plotted mystery with eight major characters and no minor characters. The Mousetrap is great theatre because there are eight interesting characters all with secrets. We guessed the murderer at the interval. See if you can.
Much Ado About Nothing at the Globe is worth the price of the flight to London. The Globe has a huge stage but if you want intimacy you can be a groundling and get a piece of an orange from Benedict or help Beatrice get back on the stage. If you want to be less involved in the play the best seats are the front row on either sides of the pole between the different sections. The reason is that there are hard wooden bench seats and the pole gets at least half a seat so you have space for your umbrella, hat, and what not. We encourage you to rent the cushion for a few pounds. The seating chart makes it look like there is a wall between the sections but it is just a small empty space. We became a member to get tickets when we wanted. We don’t know if that is worth it but you don’t want to miss going to the Globe.
Cricket is one of the world’s great sports that most Americans know nothing about. If there is an event at Lord’s go and find out. Alert: Cricket matches can go on forever and can have breaks for lunch and tea. You don’t have to stay for the whole match. Lord’s is an amazing venue with one part of the stands looking like a 19th century clubhouse and most of the rest looking very modern. Our tickets were only ten pounds for seniors so it was a cheap and fun afternoon. Have a Pimm’s while you are there. We suspect that the international events are much dearer. We left appreciating the game.
We have much to say about seeing soccer in London so we going to a third post for that.